Thursday, December 5, 2013

CHECKPOINTS, LIMITATIONS and QUESTIONS

It is forbidden to take photos of checkpoints.  As we rounded the bend, I took some with my long camera lens before we actually got to the checkpoint.  The one pictured above is a bit of a puzzle.  It is not going from Palestine to Israel.  It actually is just going from Palestine to Palestine.  The following are accounts of what happened to us and facts about some of our road trips.

There are gas stations that serve Israeli settlers only.  No Palestinians allowed even though they are on mutually used roads

There are checkpoints into Jerusalem and other cities that are for Israelis only.  Rula and Sami didn't tell us, but when they took us to Jerusalem to drop us off, we went through one of the Israeli only checkpoints because it was closer.  Before we got to the checkpoint, Sami jumped into the back seat and I into the front.  Sami told Allie just to engage in conversation with him.....Rula told me to laugh as if we were telling jokes to take the soldiers eyes off the back seat.  It worked....we went through, but if we had been caught, it is an automatic 6 months jail sentence for Sami and Rula's license would have been revoked.  Glad we didn't know! 

In order for Sami to come to Jerusalem as our "guide" for the day, he had to have written permission from the Israelis.  He rode by taxi to the checkpoint.  Walked through the checkpoint through lines like cattle chutes (no room to turn around), was searched, got into a van to come into the city, the van was stopped and the individuals searched. 

When Allie and I got into a shuttle van to go to the airport  (Israeli/Hebrew because Arabs are not allowed in the airport in Tel Aviv) the van was stopped at the checkpoint even though it was Israeli.  A soldier got on, turned on the interior lights and shined his light into each of our races to make sure no undesirables were in the van. As we passed through, there were Palestinians in cages to the right of us trying to get through to go to work....I will never forget them looking at us through the windows.
 
The checkpoint above is a small one.  It is just a few soldiers and some chutes and cages.  Most of them have a tower with soldiers with semi-automatic rifles pointing out of the windows.  The towers are manned day and night.  Checkpoints can be closed as they wish.  Let's say you need to get to work in Bethlehem....the soldiers can say that Bethlehem is closed for the day, go home. 

Settlers had built just off the road and in the middle of a small town on the way to Bethlehem.  We saw some children throwing stones down at the settlement as we drove by.  They were yelling in Arabic, GO AWAY!  WE DO NOT WANT YOU HERE!  We heard POP POP POP.....Allie turned around in the back seat in time to see soldiers shooting at the children.  The soldiers were stationed in a tower protecting the settlement. 

As we went through the checkpoint above, we were in two cars.  Father Ibrahim in his collar was driving our car first.  Sami and the boys were following in the second car.  The soldiers saw Fr Ibrahim's attire and motioned him through.  They stopped Sami's car.  Father Ibrahim stopped our car, but was afraid to get out because the soldiers had their guns drawn.  They questioned Sami about why they were going to Bethlehem....and after so many questions, Sami gave them silence.  The boys from the back seat, frightened, yelled to the soldiers that they were following the priest in the car ahead.  After more tense minutes, they allowed them to pass.

We did not see the Western (wailing) Wall in the old city of Jerusalem.  Sami would have been arrested if he had gone there, so we decided that if our friend could not go, we didn't want to go to that tourist attraction either!

When we arrived at the airport at the beginning of our trip, we expected to see only Rula....but there stood Sami waving a sign that their boys had made.  We all hugged and then they said, we needed to get out of there....that Sami was there illegally.

There are roads for Israelis only....Palestinians must travel back roads and not "interstate" like highways.

Households in Nablus only get water flowing into their homes twice a week.  That's why they have those big black water tanks on top of their houses to collect and hold water.  Israeli settlers only a few meters away have unlimited water/electricity and even swimming pools. 

The first night as we drove past Harwarwa checkpoint in Nablus, only the tower was manned.  We were told 7 people had been killed at this checkpoint.  Three of them shot and killed were pregnant women trying to get through the checkpoint to hospitals on the other side of the wall to have their babies. 

Holy Land tours are offered abundantly to unsuspecting Americans.  Most only take visitors on the Israeli side of the wall.  If you request to go to Bethlehem (which is in Palestine)  you will be told that it is too dangerous.  It is not the Palestinian Authority that prohibits visitors to Palestine.  It is Israeli Law. 


I am only stating facts.  I am not embellishing any stories or accounts.  All of these statements only scratch the surface of what we saw and heard. 


Wednesday, December 4, 2013

TWO SPECIAL PLACES


Allie coming out of the tomb of Lazarus
Ala wanted nothing to do with the camel!
On our drive to Bethlehem, we stopped for a brief visit in Bethany and to the tomb of Lazarus.  I waited at the top of the tomb, because it was narrow and deep in the ground.  The rest of the gang ventured down.  There in town was a Beduien man with his camel selling rides.  I actually wanted to get on a soap box and say to the uninformed tourists that this man and his relatives are who the Israelis are right now pushing out of their homes and taking their land down in Negev.  Just saw a protest in Britain on the news.

The second place was magnificent and it's in Nablus  Located deep in the Greek Orthodox church is Jacob's Well.  It is the place where Jesus is said to have met the Samaritan woman.  As you go into the "sanctuary" there are narrow stairwells down into the floor that lead to the ancient well.  We weren't allowed to take photos, but we were allowed to drink from the well.  AMAZING!
Inside the Greek Orthodox Church - stairwell beside alter

The gardens at Jacob's Well - in front of an old olive tree

Tuesday, December 3, 2013

THE PRECIOUS PEOPLE OF ST PHILLIP'S



 What can I say about the precious congregation at St Phillip's Episcopal and Good Shepherd in Rafedia.  Both are Anglican churches pastored by Father Ibrahim Nairouz.  In a city of thousands, there are only 700 Christians left.  They are divided up among four churches.  The Catholic church, the Greek Orthodox church, one other and the St Phillip's congregation. This is about as close to a perfect Christian community you could ever find.  They look out for one another, care for one another and provide protected family time and adventures for their congregations. 

There are hundreds of children, both Muslim and Christian in the area.  St Phillip's provides a school for all of them.  Each morning we awoke at 4am to the Muslim citywide call for prayer and then to the children in school below us later.  The church has a "gate keeper" so the children and their families are protected.  There is NO strife between Muslim and Christian.  In fact, Father Ibrahim's office assistant is Muslim and also the family that "keeps the gate" is a Muslim family. 

Fun singing songs before dividing into their Sunday School Classes

Some of our  workcamp girls....LOVE these sweeties!
 
I was a little confused at first when we were told that Sunday School would be on Friday morning.  Weekends for this group are different than ours.  The city is predominantly Muslim, so their "Sabbath" is on Fridays.  Public schools are off  Fridays and Saturdays....they have school on Sundays.  So, consequently, Sunday School is actually Friday School for all the children and teens. Regular worship service is held each Sunday morn at 11am like ours. 

Here is a link to a video of the older teens getting ready for a Christmas presentation:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10101464212483496&set=vb.25516352&type=2&theater

While we were there on Sunday, two special things happened.  The first was that the service was being broadcast throughout the Arab countries to other Christians.  This is done about once every few months so that other Christians can enjoy having services in their homes.  Allie was asked to take part in the service by reading the scripture in English after it was read in Arabic.

Secondly, a new team from EAPPI (a branch of the World Council of Churches) was visiting St Phillip's for the service.  Every three months a team of about 12 -15 young people from around the world (mostly Scandinavian countries) comes to Nablus.  They are there as observers and recorders.  They literally put themselves between the "settlers" and the city.  An international presence deters the settlers from attacking the city's people, buildings and olive trees.  They also do things like walk children to school in the local villages where they are sometimes harassed by Israeli soldiers and their dogs.  God bless these people.  It is a dangerous task....and a selfless one. 

The older teens help mentor the younger children.  The church gives the families a connection to each other and helps to provide a sense of normalcy for the people in this crazy oppressed situation they live in. 
Celebrating birthdays in the month of November out on the playground

 
Part of the youth group from St Phillips




Fun with pretty girls on the church steps

Some of the boys in the church school kindergarten class

Ameed swinging the children & helping them get almonds out of the trees

 
Here is a video of the children singing during Sunday School.  Much is the same everywhere....the teens are sitting on the back pews.....Sami is separating a couple rambunctious boys :)

 
Father Ibrahim Nairouz delivering the homily

 

Sunday, December 1, 2013

THE BAPTISM


Allie and I were exhausted. She was on the tail end of some sort of flu she had gotten on the plane from ATL to home.  I was starting to feel the beginnings of it in my nose and head.  The Nairouz family was planning to attend the Greek Orthodox baptism of a little cousin and we were invited to tag along. 

We all headed for Ramallah to the Nairouz home.  Where they live in Nablus is actually "the rectory" for the family.  They have their own family home in Ramallah.  Khalil attends school in Ramallah, so he actually lives there during the week and comes home on weekends. 

Allie and I bravely went into the kitchen to ask to stay at home and rest while their family went to the service and celebration.  I must thank Vera for insisting that we go....she wouldn't go without us!  Looking back, staying and resting at the house would have been a mistake that we would have regretted. 

Above, is a photo of the actual baptismal service.  The baby is quickly immersed three times representing the Trinity.  Then the little one is dressed in angelic clothes and everyone moves to the front of the church for the confirmation. 



Father Ibrahim's mother with their little cousin


Once the service was over, we made our way to the local Catholic church hall for the celebration.  There was a live band, lots of food & drink, and LOTS OF DANCING.  The father of the baby didn't stop dancing the whole evening as you can see by the pictures below!  It was again, a rare opportunity to be with the people of Palestine and celebrate with them.  It was an evening neither of us will ever forget!

CLICK ON THIS LINK TO SEE DAD DANCING THROUGH THE EVENING!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10101464276674856&set=vb.25516352&type=2&theater





 



 
 
 
 
 





THE WALL

 
"The Wall" is one of the most gut wrenching structures I have ever seen.  Most of these pictures are from an area just before Bethlehem.  The Israelis say they need it for security.  They have been cruelly creative in separating families, friends and neighbors.  The wall is a reminder of a people occupied and oppressed. 

You must have permission to go past the wall.  You must explain to your children why they live inside a wall.  There are pleas of freedom written all over the walls.  There are tall towers in strategic places in the wall with armed soldiers watching every move of the people below. 

Deemed too imposing for tourists and visitors in some areas, it has been replaced by neatly lined wire fences with small little white boxes about every 20 meters.  I asked what they were.  The fences flow with enough electricity to kill of touched. The little white boxes are sensors that fire bullets automatically should anyone venture too close.  There are sections of protective walls that have shards of glass embedded in the top so that should anyone try to crawl over, they would be severely cut.


The wall is rarely in a straight line.  It weaves in and out of cities and neighborhoods.  We met a shop owner in old Jerusalem that had done business in his shop for 90 years.  He and his father would walk from their home to their place of business each day.  The Israelis constructed the massive wall only meters from the back door of his home....dividing him from neighbors he had grown up with.  Now he must get up 3 hours earlier each day and walk to a checkpoint to finally get to his shop. 

 
The red line in the above photo is of the separation wall as it will look upon completion.  They have been constructing it since 2005 and continue to build and build. 

You may click on the link below to see Allie's video as we drove along a narrow street that ran along the wall. It is hundreds of miles of concrete.  There are really no words to describe it.  I will write about the "checkpoints" on a later blog. 

ALLIE'S VIDEO OF "THE WALL"


 

VIDEOS of PALESTINE :)

Here are links to two videos.  Just click on the underlined area to get to them:


We were at the Quafiti home one evening with the whole gang of workcampers and Merna's family.  Apparently there is a popular song by our equivalent to Celene Dion about a girl named ALIA.  They put the CD on and began singing to her!

The Gang Singing to Allie

 




We visited a classroom of kindergartners at St Philip's.....
Kindergartners At St Philip's Episcopal School


STORIES OVER THE DINNER TABLES

 
 
Above are pictures of Workcamper Fadi and his family.  Mom is the director of community relations for the local hospital and Fadi's dad is a chemistry teacher in the public school system.  The food we had there was scrumptious!  Always there is discussion over the meals of past and present.  In this blog I will tell you a few of the stories we heard.

In 1948 in the coastal city of Jaffa, a young Palestinian man worked in the shipyard.  When the Israelis invaded they warned the workers to leave or they would throw nets over them.  Calling their bluff, the workers did not leave and nets were thrown.  All were killed but a handful.  The young man was one of the workers killed.  His small son fled inward toward Nablus with his grandparents.  Both grandparents died along the walk, leaving the 10 year old grandson to fend for himself.  That young boy's name was IBRAHIM NAIROUZ.....Father Ibrahim's grandfather and namesake. 

In the 1970s, Sami was throwing stones at the Israeli army.  They started chasing him.  Sami was faster because he had no weapons or gear, so he fled to the house of someone in  town.  They lady of the house pulled the refrigerator out from the wall, pushed Sami into the corner and them pushed the refrigerator back.  The soldiers came to the door adamant that they saw Sami run into the house.  They searched and didn't find him.....so Sami escaped a trip to prison. 

Also in 1948, we heard a story from Workcamp Majd's grandfather.  He was a young teenage boy at the time.  When the Israeli army was headed toward Nablus, he was given a whistle and a yardstick and told to guard the border.  He was instructed to blow the whistle to let those in town know they were coming.  He laughs now at the idea of rebuffing the Israeli army with a whistle and a stick.

Sami was taken from his home for a 3 day stint in an Israeli prison once.  They were made to sit on a "block" for three days....no standing, no moving, no laying down.  The first two days they were given no food.  The last day, they were given the scraps from the plates of the Israeli soldiers guarding them.  At the end of three days, he was told to go home and given no reason for his imprisonment.  When he applied for a visa to come to Workcamp, he was asked why he was imprisoned for those three days.  His reply, "I was hoping you would be able to give me the reason!"

In 2002, Father Ibrahim was sitting on the family's small balcony  having tea in Ramallah, when an Israeli sniper fired at him from a distance. The bullet bounced off the metal door frame and grazed his leg.  Apparently they gunmen were just trying to pick off any Palestinians outside their homes that they could single out.  The dent in the doorway still exists....I ran my hand across it. 

The same happened to a young Muslim woman.  We were told the story by her sister.  The woman was working in her kitchen in 2002 and taking care of her young children.  A sniper shot through the window and killed her in her own home. 
Visiting Workcamp Alaa with his family in their home in Nablus

A quick visit with Ibrahim Jeries in his home built underneath Alaa's